Sunday, April 29, 2012

Motor Scooters in Jamaica - a little adventure on a relaxing trip

Unable to spend an entire vacation just relaxing with our books/drinks by the ocean, Tracy and I rented motor scooters and picked a spot on a map. We set off on a mission to explore a little of a less visited corner of western Jamaica. So much fun and so memorable, motor scooters might just find a place in some of our future vacation plans.

Feeling awesome and looking ridiculous.

I am not sure our vehicles were quite built for the terrain we took them on, but they performed admirably. We survived dirt roads, sand, potholes, some brief off-roading and the dodging trucks into bushes all in one day trip.

Just as I had hoped for, we easily found our own little private beaches as picturesque as you could imagine.

Time for a snack out of the sun in a perfect little beach spot.

Happy to be off adventuring again. Jamaica, we like you.

We've arrived at the destination that we picked off of a random map...Little Bay Jamaica.  First order of business was to stop at this little fisherman's bar on the beach and secure lunch and a drink. These gentleman were already through a couple bottles of liquor by lunchtime, however I think we caught them during a very friendly stage of inebriation.

We found a couple of fisherman who were more than willing to sell us a fish caught that morning and even prepare it as a little lunch for a few dollars. The "kitchen" may have been primitive but the food was delicious.

Tracy befriended this little local puppy which she named "Chef". He was so amazingly cute and friendly that we temporarily suspended our no touching stray animals rule for travel. He was worth the risks.

This man is building fish traps by hand just like he's been doing on this same beach for over 50 years. Nice guy and amazing to think he was here doing the same work back when my parents were driving around Jamaica on their honeymoon.

We kept thinking that Jamaica seemed quite like Africa. Both are lands of simple beauty, friendly people, infectious culture and heart-breaking poverty.

Little Bay, Jamaica is still known primarily for being a beach that Bob Marley used to visit to get away from the pressures of Kingston.  We could understand why he came, it was quiet and pretty and seemingly stuck in time.
This day trip was another reminder that is can be both easy and safe to get away from the well traveled tourist areas of any country and experience a little of the true culture and beauty so often missed in a world dominated by all-inclusive resort compounds.

Friday, April 20, 2012

Morning to night in Negril, Jamaica - cliffs, ocean and the Rockhouse Hotel

Between two winter European trips and coming home to cold, gray mid-western weather, we decided at the last minute to go warm up and relax mid-February.  Relaxing on vacation is not something we regularly do because there are too many new things to experience.  But once in awhile, like when you realize you haven't finished a book in too many months or when you have forgotten what the sun feels like, it is necessary to unplug somewhere away from the looming thesis and ever present work to bask in the sun while slimed up with SPF.  
Enter Rockhouse, Negril, Jamaica.
Tracy originally found this resort in 2004 when we were planning our destination wedding.  It didn't  appear in our story then, but eight years later was most welcomed into the plot.  Five days of amazing sunsets, rocky cliffs, clear ocean, yoga and exercise, meeting wonderful people, and great food...Oh and we each finished two books and started a third.

This artist has been in the same spot on the beach creating amazing wooden sculptures for decades.  

Do you see how "perched" our room was on cliffs?  Our bed was surrounded by windows showcasing the magnificent, meandering coves of the Caribbean...all of which we could climb ladders down to and swim in.

Every night during happy hour, the Rockhouse guests filled the pool patios taking in the picture perfect sunsets.  The location on the island puts the horizon at due west.

Here I am (It's Tracy) getting ready for another sunset while cooling off in the pool.  The days were long and lovely reading under umbrellas, doing morning yoga together with Fanette Johnson, swimming in the ocean, cooling off in the pool, reading lots of books, and talking for hours.  I can see why most every guest at Rockhouse is on their 7th or 8th year returning.  A very comfortable, pristine place that wills you to relax and take deep breaths.

Does it get much better than this?  A near perfect sailboat and sunset moment. We have strikingly similar sunset photos from a trip in 2008 near St. Barth's...but every experience is special and a separate memory that slows time for bit.

Do you see why we hardly left the resort?  (so unlike us, too!) 

Rockhouse Hotel at night as seen from the restaurant...with a very very long shutter speed.

An even longer shutter speed was needed to capture the stars over the Rockhouse pool at night. Warm nights, beautiful views, great food and a relaxed atmosphere make the cliffs south of the Negril a wonderful little corner of Jamaica.

Monday, February 13, 2012

Paris - Part 3 (The Louvre and New Years in Paris)

We may have drawn out the blogging of our week in Paris a little too long. The city is just such an alive and electric place that each day seems like 3 when we look back. It is been hard to cut anything out when retelling the story. We really did save the best of Paris for the end of our trip. The best museum(The Louvre), the best meal(Le Grapillon on NYE) and best experience(running around the city drinking champagne at midnight).

The Louvre has two entrances(that I know of), the main outdoor entrance at the famous(infamous?) glass pyramid and this back entrance at the inverted but equally impressive glass pyramid. I recommend this one because of the dramatically shorter line and protection from the rain.

Some of the art at the Louvre is more impressive than I could have imagined(e.g. "Winged Victory", "Liberty Leading the People" ) Others like the Mona Lisa above, are a bit disappointing. As if being tiny, far away and behind bullet proof glass wasn't bad enough, there is a constant crowd of people straining to get the same bad photograph.

In complete contrast, "The Astronomer" one of Vermeer's 34 known paintings in the world was unprotected and ignored in the corner of a side room.

The aforementioned "pyramid entrance" with ever-present long and winding line.

Outside of Restaurant le Grappillon. Site of one of the best meals of my life. For new years eve we ate there with our friends EF and MF sharing a fabulous and very french meal of foie gras, scallops, escargot, oysters, lobster and more. 

Walking through the courtyard of the Louvre at night on our way to celebrate new years was a beautiful and unexpected  experience.

The Louvre and its pyramids in all their surreal, city of light glory.

A little early in the night to be our official new years eve kiss but the dramatic setting will live on in our memories.

Walking through Parisian crowds on NYE towards the Eiffel Tower for midnight champagne. The energy of Paris at night was infectious.

This moment has inspired us to try to celebrate New Years Eve on every continent(So far we have N America, Africa and now Europe)
The next morning we woke up and flew on to Rome to continue our whirlwind tour of some Europe's most famous sites. Blog posts of this, our more recent trip to Jamaica and upcoming road trip/dogsledding in Scandinavia are on their way soon!

Saturday, January 21, 2012

Paris - Part 2(Bicycles, Eiffel and Montmartre)

Trying to see two of the worlds great cities in 9 days is a Herculean task, but we gave it our best shot last month travelling to Paris and Rome. During the middle few days in Paris we dragged our friends EF and MF on a whirlwind tour. Ignoring dreary rain and chilly temperatures, we biked, walked, ate and drank our way around town at breakneck speed. 


We probably were not supposed to be taking our rental bikes on this stone walk along the banks of the Seine, but it made for a memorable if a bit bumpy morning.

A view from the windows of the Musee D'Orsay looking out onto the Louvre. It really is worth getting up early to get to these museums before the crowds, the people of Paris are not early risers which may be related to Parisian restaurants not even opening their doors until 8pm.

Arc de Triomphe. This arch sits at the end of the "times-squarified" Champs-Elysees and  got me wondering why Europeans seem to think is a good idea to turn great historical monuments into traffic circles.

We loved the Montmartre neihborhood, it is everything Champs-Elysees is not...mostly, it still feels culturally Parisian.

Montmartre is dominated by the Sacre-Coeur Basilica at the top of the hill. 

Sacre-Coeur holds a commanding view over Paris.

French wine (which is definitely better in France) combined with decadent French food and the Paris cafe culture makes for relaxing days filled with little luxuries...not a bad way to live. 
The Eiffel Tower: Iconic enough to draw a massive crowd even on a cold and rainy Wednesday in the middle of winter. 

I have heard it said that since pictures of every square inch of the planet are available in a few mouse clicks, that we have lost some of the purpose and thrill of travel. However, in my mind there is nothing that can take the place of standing in the fog looking up at this beautiful tower. If you have ever really traveled, to places far away, and seen things of unimaginable magnitude and stunning beauty, then you know it doesn't matter how large your LCD screen is, there is no substitute for the experience of travel.

Tuesday, December 27, 2011

Bonjour!



Paris-Day 1
After an overnight flight with minimal sleep, on our foggy first morning, it was determined that against our better judgement and the advice of our driver we will be riding these tomorrow on the crazy streets of Paris.

Le Marais, location of our rental flat.  Older of the neighborhoods of Paris.
First time in Paris!


Notre Dame looming in the fog.


Two coffee stops later, our food consumption included the longest hot dog and cheese baguette we had ever seen.  Our friend is a great sport!
Our lack of sleep left us delirious and made the day seem very dream-like.
Notre Dame




Stained glass viewed from the interior of the cathedral.

French Cuisine
I'm in love!
Our table experienced steak tar tar, duck confit, roasted duck breast, and pan seared pork with mustard seed seasoning (above plate).  Throw in a great bottle of Bordeaux and chocolate cake to call it a successful night.

Le Marais in the evening.  "Our Home in Paris" (rental company) has really impressed us with our flat, driver, and concierge.  We didn't plan anything on our travel day, yet found Paris to be very walkable and easy to navigate making it easy to accomplish so much on our first day.

Tuesday, December 6, 2011

Photography

It is camera upgrade season in our household.  With multiple new contraptions arriving, I am inspired to think about some of my most favorite captured moments.  Some of the photographs I take carry sentimental meaning, some are (frankly) tough shots I'm proud of, and some are great surprises.  Since there are too many to include in one post, I will stick to a gallery posting of "strength in subjects."  You will get my drift, I hope.  Here are some of my favorites (minus a few I snapped in Cuzco, Peru that may or may not be included in Cayle's upcoming post).
Try shooting out of the window of a moving matatu while also attempting to hide your camera.  It's not easy, but not as hard as pulling all of that produce. I like that the trailer has a vibrating look to it, appropriate for the location and the action taking place.

The camera is held down at my side as if it isn't on, my thumb resting the button.  They are looking up at our faces.  Beautiful, enduring children.

A solitary Acacia, winding and well trodden path, ray of light casting onto a Sub-Saharan plain and vast horizon... interpretations and representations are all too many to list.  I cherish moments while traveling where at an exact moment in time you know you are right where you should be.  There is unparalleled strength in such a feeling.

An icon of Mayan civilization, Temple of Kukulkan, Chichen Itza circa 2008.  On the spring and summer equinox, shadows are casted revealing a serpent's body down the staircase.  If visited now, the pyramid is fenced off and the land is quite barren.  

Whatever camera I had in 2007 (Kodak maybe?), I can't fault it much because it gave me this.

On one very hot, very sunny day I fought to ignore the chorus of "Jump Around" repeating in my mind while trying to absorb the cultural significance of a tribe's deep tradition.

A great blue heron looking dignified.  What I like most about this photo is the trifecta of landscapes ranging from the foreground and into the farthest distance with the green vegetation contrasting the detail of the bird.

If only this llama new it was so hip!  The "greenest" way to mow your lawn.  And the Andes, oh the Andes.  Is there a better mountain range?  P.S. it really was that green.

A moss covered Buddha surrounded by the tallest and brightest colored bamboo I have ever seen.  Allerton Garden, Kauai, Hawaii.

What I love about this photo (other than the man in it), was a complete accident.  A raindrop hit the lens of our waterproof digital right before I took this photo creating a motion effect at the rear of the kayak.  How speedy Cayle looks!


A director's chair.  How many amazing people have sat in it taking in a view of the Ugandan hillside? Or, should the emptiness of this director's chair be a metaphor for the political leadership of a country?

Some detail is lost in the highlights of the petals, but I still love the reflection of the waterlilly.


Another iPhone shot, which is forever the lock screen on my phone. We can't get enough of our Cavalier King Charles Spaniel and are very lucky he is so welcomed and loved by his grandparents while we travel.
Can't wait for our new cameras to come in!  We have some major photography candy coming up finishing 2011 in Paris and starting 2012 off in Rome.

What about a photograph of yours qualifies it as one of your favorites?